Random Clips

I haven’t posted in a while and have a hadful of random things to talk about that have occurred the last month or so.

First is this video of my friend Tadd Maudlin, cruising on his sailboat off the coast of Belize, doing a dance that I used to do in college and most likely still do.  I’m very jealous of him – bought a boat and is cruising on it indefinitely with his girlfriend, they are now in the Carribbean off Belize – follow them on their blog at http://lastknownposition.blogspot.com 

 

Speaking of boats, mine was broken for two long weeks – the motor went out while we were sailing, so we had to sail her into the can with pretty much no wind – super fun and challenging.  Then I tried a zillion differnet things to fix her, all to no avail and making it worse over about ten days.  Called a boat mechanic named Doug Pietz recommended by my boat neighbor.  He met me out on the boat and proceeded to tear into the motor fearlessly – fixing three problems, each of which could have been a major issue on its own, all in the span of under two hours.  A true professional and it was really amazing to watch him work.  I was very impressed with his skill and his pricing and efficiency and fun attitude.  If you need boat engine work done certainly call him at 847 533 9030, he is spectacular.

This past weekend I went to another lake house, also in Michigan and on the shore of Lake Michigan and its spectacular giant sand beaches – they are truly stunning if you have a chance to check out the west coast of the lower peninsula definitely do, they seriously rival many of the great beaches around the world in my opinion in the summer, and also very cool to experience in the wintertime.  Stretches a couple hundred miles up the coast.  Here’s a view from the kitchen:

 

Took different crew sailing each day of the air and water show including Friday – very fun and gorgeous days.  Check the picture of the enormous American flag on a sailboat we saw. 

At the Air and Water Show in Chicago 2009

Went to Devil’s Lake one Sunday a couple weeks back to rock climb with some climbing friends, great time had by all.  Gorgeous, perfect day and terrific group of climbers.

This weekend we head to Lake Superior to kayak the Apostle Islands for five days, should be a great trip, sevn of us are going, really looking forward to it.

Went to a Purdue football game last Saturday, very fun to see all my old buddies and wander by my old apartment.   In college I managed to jump a car over the embankment shown below, they seem to have put up posts to stop this in the future.

Scene of trouble back in the day

At the Air and Water Show in Chicago 2009

Scene of trouble back in the day

Rippin it up in So Ill on the Sandstone

Alan rapping off Cranial Implosion (12a) at Jackson Falls, So Ill

Went to Southern Illinois over the weekend to rock climb at Jackson Falls with my friend from the gym, Alan. We had a great time and got on some good routes including some 5.8s to warm up on the east side of the canyon and Cranial Implosion, a 5.12a I’d really like to get at some point. I worked out the crux sequence which I haven’t been able to do before, so that was encouraging. Also got on Lovely Arete again, but it was soaking wet so much more difficult and scarier to do as it was slippery, so no dice. It’s an 11a. It was hot and muggy and the rock was mostly wet so we climbed hard most of the day Saturday and came back to the city late Saturday night, getting in around 2am. I swam in the pool under the falls again to cool off, I was covered in sweat after each climb, soaking my shoes and slick with the stuff, what a relief to jump in a pond after. Here’s a good site showing how to get to the crags and some details on the climbing at Jackson Falls in Shawnee National forest if you’re interested.  And here’s an even better site showing a map of some of the climbs and grades and how to get there.  It’s a five-six hour road trip from Chicago.  We drove through a long, massive rainstorm on the way down – bonus was a full rainbow across the highway – so gorgeous!  Snapped a shot of it with my Blackberry.

June rainbow in Southern Illinois from the car

22 Climbers to Jackson falls, So Ill

And no injuries!  And all had a great time!  Very fun weekend with True Adventures.  We had seven cars, three of which went early.  Of those three, only one was able to decipher the last bit of directions .2 miles is quite different from 2 miles.  No worries, we caravanned at the end and managed to pick them all up – cell phones are fabulous.  We also all managed to stay in the same campsite.  I love Jackson Falls as there are no rules, and even better no cost, camping is free, and the area is beautiful.  We arrived late Friday night and everybody managed to get their tents up and sleep. 

View of our campsite at Jackson Falls

 Will and I headed to the rocks early Saturday morning and got the ropes set on a few climbs.  It’s a bit tricky to get newbies into the canyon as you have to go hand over hand backwards down a knotted rope, maybe 30 feet down a steeply angled cliff.  Got everybody on the rock both Saturday and Sunday, lots of smiles and frustration and people accomplishing more than they thought and learning new skills and getting scared and stretching themselves.

Another highlight in my mind was the waterfall – falls about 25 feet into a small pool – that is great for swimming.  I’d say at least half of the crew went swimming.  And two of us jumped off the cliff into the pool, which was pretty scary as it’s only about 10 feet deep and has rocks around.  You need to hit your landing area fairly well.  Provided another burst of adrenaline for me.  I flailed on the climb Lovely Arete, though did managed to make all the moves actually easily, just was a weenie on lead, need more practice on on-sight leading.  Check the video of some other fellows jumping that gave us the inspiration.

In front of Lovely Arete (11a) at Jackson Falls, Southern Illinois

Lots of people got ticks – not tiny deer ticks that carry lyme disease, just regular ticks that are still not so great to have around and pull out of your skin.

Great weekend, Jackson Falls is terrific and all the folks on the trip made it that much better.

Climbing Panic Story and Barn Bluff, Red Wing Again

We were going to go climbing in Southern Illinois from Chicago but again it was predicted to rain and the weather looked perfect in Minnesota, so off we went to Barn Bluff.  Six of us this time, mostly friends and friends of friends from the gym, all climbers and into it, but mostly indoors climbers looking to get outside.  They were all really pumped, some of them their first time climbing outdoors, ever.  Two of them had never lead before, which in rock climbing is a major deal, really taking you to the next level mentally, physically, and I’d say emotionally.  It can be really scary when you are ten feet above your last bolt and your arms are burning and the fall isn’t clean and you’re having a hard time hanging on to the rock, desperately trying to clip in to the next protection that’s just out of your reach so you put the draw back on your harness quickly, fumbling a little in your haste.  You start to breathe faster, your leg begins to go into minor spasms as the fear grips it.  Feeling around blindly on the rock over your head, running your hand back and forth across the rock feeling for a good hold.  Finally you feel a tiny crimper that MUST hold, you crank down on it with your right fingers, and ahhhh – it’s a little better than it felt.  The bolt is off to your right though so you grab a draw with your left hand and awkwardly reach over your head as you feel your right arm burning from the exertion, you swear you can only hold on another second…. barely get the draw clipped to the bolt, and brief relief.  You then reach down and grab the rope, panic rising in your chest and taking over your brain, pull the rope up, your belayer pays you out a bunch of slack and your hand is right by the carabiener, about to get it to go in YOUR RIGHT HAND SLIPS AND YOU FALL!  “FALLING!!!!” you yell and then the rock quickly becomes a blur in front of you and your mind goes blank, and you’re falling, then you feel the rope rapidly come tight, twenty feet later you swing into the wall hard but not painfully, heart pounding in your chest.  Breathing hard and deep for the first time in three minutes.   Look down at your belayer thirty feet below, say “Whoa!” with a grin slowly lighting up your face and then you begin to laugh, relief and joy washing over you as you feel the adrenaline begin to drain out of you.  After a moment you grab the rope and say – “I’m batmanning back up!” and horse yourself back up the rope to the last clip you had bolted to give it another go.

Good stuff! 

Below are some pics – three great guys and three great girls, was a really fun trip with a great vibe amongst us and a high level of excitement as we were all pumped to be on real rock, outside the plastic of the gym.

Intense Focus at Barn Bluff

Drove up 380 miles from Chicago Friday night, stayed at the Best Western in town, then in the morning had the free continental breakfast there and headed to the crag, only five minutes from the hotel.  There we proceeded to get shut down by a 5.8 which was crazy as we were easily able to do 5.10s and gave an 11 a solid shot.  I swear the 8’s and 9’s were sometimes harder, maybe it was just me.  Got on probably 7 or 8 great climbs, got the girls leading for the first time, and generally had a blast as the weather was perfect for climbing, cool yet warm.  Then headed back that night, home at around 2 am after a nice dinner at a ratty bar – nice in terms of time together, not nice in terms of fancy food.

One minor yet major plus about Barn Bluff is there are carabieners or clips at the top of every climb – so at the top, you simply clip the rope in and zip down, it’s so convenient and saves so much time from clipping in at the top, going in direct with two draws, untying the rope, feeding it through, retying, and then belaying or even rapelling down.

Meredith heading up the rock on her first lead. Barn Bluff, Red Wing, MN

 

Alan and I climbing near "Into the Sun" at Barn Bluff

Bouldering (Climbing) at Hidden Peak in Chicago

Went bouldering again at Hidden Peak over the weekend.  I’ve never really gotten into bouldering but really enjoyed myself there.  There was a great vibe, lots of guys helping each other out, encouraging one another, and working out boudering problems together.  Picture three or five guys standing around and taking turns working out the same sequence of moves up a short rock climbing wall, each one falling off at the same spot, then gradually trying different ways of doing the hard move, and each one doing it better and better until it finally goes. 

“I toed in with my left foot”

“Crimp hard with your right”

“Set your feet after the dyno, then drop knee and reach up right for the sloper”

“Pinch with your right, cut your feet, right foot on the chip, left hand into the hueco”

Very fun with a great feeling of accomplishment after it’s done.  A decent workout with sweat and sore back and arms the next day.  I’ll be going back.  Bouldering works your core, and the climbs are much shorter, no ropes are used.  You simply jump off and land on the padded floor when you’ve finished a climb.   Density of holds is much thicker.  Means you can get in many more climbs, and typically the moves are more difficult and acrobatic in a more condensed fashion than a typical route.  Endurance isn’t key but core strength and crimp/grip power are.  It seems most of the great climbers are also accomplished boulderers.

I’d love to get a bouldering wall built in the first floor parking of Park Community Church, working on it.

Boulderers at Hidden Peak, Chicago

To get to Hidden Peak and info on climbing there:

937 W. Chestnut St., Chicago(312) 563-9400 CTA – Take the Blue Line to the Chicago stop. Cross Chicago and go north on Ogden. You will walk under a bridge and turn right onto Chestnut. Driving – 90/94 from downtown. Exit at Augusta/ Milwaukee. Turn left at the light onto Milwaukee. Follow to Chicago Ave. Turn left onto Chicago. Cross light at Ogden and turn left at Sangamon. Continue on to the end of Sangamon, and turn right onto Chestnut. 90/94 from the North – Exit at Ogden. Turn left on Ogden and follow it to the end. Turn right onto Chestnut. Head through stop sign at Sangamon. LakeShore Academy is on the right.  Has eight rope routes and 2,200 feet of climbing surface mostly for bouldering. Hours Monday-Friday 12 noon -2 p.m., 5 p.m. – 8:45 p.m. Saturday 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. Sundays 12-4 p.m. Fees Annual pass – $375 Day pass – $10 Lunch pass – $7 Children’s pass – $7 Shoes – $5 Harness – $2 Full gear – $6 Monthly pass – $55 10, gear punch pass – $40 10, punch pass – $80 Weights – $29 Please note – Hidden Peak is located inside Lakeshore Academy.

Rock Climbing at Red Wing Minnesota II

Me in front of a climb at Red Wing Minnesota

Went rock climbing up in Red Wing Minnesota last weekend – I was very impressed.  Being a Chicago local we don’t have too many climbing options nearby, it’s nice to add another one to the list.  I’m guessing maybe 50 climbs or so.  Steep but not overhanging limestone.  Routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14, so something for everybody.  Some great cracks to for trad climbers.  Half of it’s in the sun, half is north facing, so depending the time of day or the time of the year you can choose where to climb.  Some polished holds on the easier climbs but I didnt find it too egregious.  We camped at Frontenac State Park about ten minutes from the crag.  The town of Red Wing is pretty cool, lots of bikers and a number of cool restaurants, minutes from the climbing.  Very enjoyable trip.  Another item of note – at the tops of all the climbs there wer carabieners attached to the chains!  It made for much faster climbing as when you topped out you just clipped the rope in to both bieners and down you came, no laborious and dangerous time wasted cleaning the route, and not wear and tear on the chains/cold shuts and makes it more efficient and safer for all.  Would be great to have that setup at the Red and Jackson Falls too.

Sandra on trad lead

Rock Climbing in Red Wing Minnesota

I’m heading up to Red Wing Minnesota this weekend for a rock climbing trip from Chicago, so looking forward to getting outside and on some real rock.   Was going to head to southern Illinois or the Red River Gorge in Kentucky but both looked rainy.  I’ve never been to Red Wing and actually haven’t even heard of it.  I’m pretty excited, hear from the person taking me that it’s great rock and cool routes and about the same drive.  We’ll see!  Been climbing hard at the gym to get ready, looking forward to the season.

This sounds pretty good:

About Barn Bluff:

An old limestone quarry on the bluff overlooking the city of Red Wing and the Missippi River. Some of the routes are dirty, but the lions share are quality. All established routes are bolted (in order to prevent erosion of the top soil cover in the cliff), with the exception of a few crack climbs and some “open projects”. There are many routes of all dificulty levels, including many good routes for beggining leaders. The area is owned by the City of Red Wing and continued access depends on appropriate behavior/climbing practices. Please remove all trash and consumables that you bring in. There are no restrooms; use facilities in town. Also, be aware that holds come off from time to time. Sometimes they take very large chunks of rock with them. A helmet is advised for the belayer. Be careful in the spring after the freeze/thaw. Also be wary of any of the harder routes that recieve less traffic.

Climbing in Red Wing - 12b

Hustle Up the Hancock 2009

I raced in the Hustle Up The Hancock on Sunday.  It’s a race up 94 floors to the top of the Hancock building.  I really enjoyed it – similar to mountain climbing.  They start a racer every eight seconds from 7am to about one in the afternoon.  The stairs didn’t really get that crowded, but I had to pass people every so often, which takes extra energy as you generally have to pass them on the outside, and need to take the stairs two at a time to get enough speed during the half-flight of stairs before the turn.  I did it as a team member through Lakeshore Athletic Club where I work part-time as a climbing instructor (and they sponsored part of the race).   They actually have water stations in the stairwell.  Timing chips on your shoe and the whole deal.  Very cool experience.  I hadn’t counted on the hand rail being such a help – I pulled myself up, probably 20-30% of my weight with my arms – mostly left arm.   I began running them two at a time but all my training was on the stair machine, and I did them one at a time in training so went to single steps – still made good time, besting my goal of 18 minutes, coming in at 17 minutes, 30 seconds.   Below are some videos I took with my Blackberry on the way up – gives a feel for it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJpWCux7t18

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qu0arx88heI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8PlAOle9oQ

Apparently a fellow with a double lung transplant does the race each year – one of the happiest men around I’m told.  As would most of us be I suspect, were we given a new lease on life and been blessed with that forced appreciation of every minute and day on this earth.

I went to a free carbo-loading dinner the night before the race generously sponsored by the Signature room on the 95th floor of the Hancock and met the fellow who runs the race, terrific fellow and very committed to the Respiratory Lung Association of Metro Chicago whom the event benefits.

A couple points to note.  My friend owns the company that sells Better Whey of Life yogurt -it’s delicious low sugar all natural yogurt with 15-17 grams of whey protein in it.  I ate one before the race and two after.  I had right around zero soreness the day after the race and none two days after.  I did eat a bunch of other good food but I wonder if there’s a connection…

Hustle Up The Hancock Medal 2009

Second City Improv Classes = A Ton of Fun

So I decided to take improv classes at Second City – one of my goals this year is to learn to public speak better and to better speak extemporaneously.  Toastmasters is on the list of things to do and Second City seems like a really fun way to accomplish something similar.  I used to be the guy who would wait until the very end to go and be nervous if I knew I was next – I promised myself to jump and always volunteer and never be last for anything for this class – no matter how stupid I am probably going to look.  It’s a really fun and challenging experience, I would have to classify it as a huge adventure in that it really gets me out of my comfort zone and stretches and expands my world.  I also laugh way more than I do at work or most other times, it is such a blast.  I have taken other classes and done other things – but it has been a long time since I really looked forward to Wednesday nights and going to a class – I am fired up before, during and after, like right now as I type I have energy and excitement pumping through me – such a great feeling.  I am pretty excited by the thought of being on stage.  I once taught rock climbing to the great Charna Halpern, owner and co-founder of Improv Olympic, now know as IO, another improv school here in Chicago, which if you didn’t know is an improv mecca, turning out some of the bigger names in comedy including John Belushi, Bill Murray, Gilda Radner, Chris Farley and many others.  Folks from Chicago populate much of the staff of Saturday Night Live, the Conan O’Brien show, Mad TV, and others.  Anyways – back to rock climbing and Charna.  We talked for a long time after and during climbing and drew many parallels between climbing and being on stage.  At that point I was petrified of the thought of being on stage and speaking in front of people, but not too worried hanging by a rope 60 feet in the air with one person holding me up.  Charna felt similarly scared by climbing but no hesitance at all about being on stage.  The fear in both is very real – and a second parallel is that in improv you are very dependent on your partner to not make you look like a fool – climbing you are very dependent on your partner to save your life.  Deep bonds are established between people in both activities, very real fear is experienced in both and can be heightened by choice (higher more dangerous climbs, bigger and bigger audiences) and both stretch and expand the participants’ worlds.

Second City Mainstage - Gymnastics apparently

Try climbing and try improv if you have the chance!!

Scond City’s website is here, IO’s is here, and Lakeshore Athletic Club’s Illinois Center site is here - I teach every Tuesday from 4:30 to 6:30 so come on down and let them know that you are there to see me, might get you a deal.

Starved Rock Ice Climbing was a Terrific Time

Happy Ice Climbers

So much fun ice climbing!  We ended up having sixteen total, one girl bailed.  It was such a great and memorable day – from the very beginning, meeting people in the parking lot at church on a freezing cold Saturday morning at 7:15am – you know you’re going to be hanging out with cool people all day if it starts like that.  One girl brought hot Chai she served up right there from a thermos – she had made it with spices she brought back from India – yum!  Rides got organized easily and we met up in the parking lot a couple hours later by the beautiful Starved Rock lodge.  We all hiked into the forest, one group actually was late but no big deal as they had directions to the climbs.   Got people climbing on the easier French Canyon

Climbing at French Canyon

and simultaneously got folks going on the 65 foot Wildcat icefall.  Everybody was so great, so helpful, so excited, and so into it, it was amazing.  Girls and guys alike.  I found it interesting to note that the earlier climbers, the ones who went first were more timid, but as a group, the more people that went, the more comfortable everybody got with the idea of it and gradually people went higher and higher until a few of the girls made it to the top.  So exciting!!  One girl told me “That’s the coolest thing I’ve ever done!”  That’s a solid endorsement if I’ve ever heard one. 

Katy Schaffer climbing Wildcat

Everybody who wanted to got to climb twice, and lots of chilling out, watching others, helping out, eating, hiking, chatting, laughing, having fun.  Met two terrific guys who stayed with us and helped us climb all day, getting everybody geared up and belaying lots of us.  We helped them out as well.  By the end of the day the waterfall was flowing pretty good so climbers would get soaked during the climbs.

Afterwards we went to Duffy’s bar and grill in town.  A couple of us got turtle, pretty yummy.  So fun, lots of laughing, good stories, and good ideas for future adventures.

Rachel nears the top of Wildcat!